Our today's lesson is dedicated to another method of attaching the hood (or collar) to the garment: using butt seam in felting.
This time we'll use Merino carded wool as the main material (see the table of average wool expense below). Besides that, we'll need
- about 100g(3.5oz) of fleece curls
- 10-20g (0.7oz) of viscose fibers
- 10-20g (0.7oz) of hand dyed silk hankies
- about 30g(1oz) of merino wool roving (as the additional strengthening layer)
Vest pattern consists of two parts: back and front; high button hood pattern consists of a single part.
Use silk hankies as the first layer - they'll make your vest durable with a nice texture inside. Moisten silk clouds with warm soapy water.
Lay thin carded wool layers down on the template.
Before you start, divide all the wool according to the consumption table.
Lay down the additional wool layer (5-7cm or 2'' along the front and neckline) at the beginning of wool layout and its completion - it is necessary to strengthen the open edges of the garment.
Try to lay out carded wool evenly onto the surface. Light viscose fibers will give an extra shine to the felt fabric.
After finishing the layout, cover with mesh and moisten the wool with warm soapy water and manually rub through the mesh. Even you do not have a special ball brause sprinkler, you can use a simply PET bottle and drill the smallest holes in a cap.
Remove the excess water with a towel.
Remove the mesh and lightly rub the front and neckline in a circular motion forming a smooth edge.
Turn over the template after the wool fibers will felt together.
Continue laying out silk hankies then bend the allowances to the front.
Continue wool layout, moisten and rub through the mesh. Don't forget about the strengthening layer.
Bend the allowances backward. Look closely and cover any possible holes with thin wool strands.
The base is completely ready.
Take the fleece curls and spread them onto the wool surface.
Rub through the mesh until the curls are strongly connected to the wool surface.
Now the intensive felting process is beginning. Wrap the template in the mesh and start rolling in different directions. When you feel that the wool become dense - remove the template and continue rolling both length and width.
Pay attention to the side areas - they should not have any ripples.
Rinse out the hood in warm water, then continue to felt adding fresh soapy water; continue until it felt to about half of shrinkage.
Set the hood aside and proceed to the vest. Begin with the back detail. Lay down silk clouds, moisten with warm soapy water.
Continue layout: carded wool, then additional strengthening layer, then decorative viscose fibers.
After finishing the layout, cover with mesh and moisten the wool with warm soapy water and manually rub through the mesh. Remove the mesh and lightly rub around armhole, neck and bottom in a circular motion forming a smooth edge. Try to leave the allowances intact when rubbing.
Turn over the template and continue laying out the front detail. Begin with silk hankies, then moisten and turn the allowances.
Adhere to the wool consumption table.
Spread the fleece curls with thin layer on the template.
Pay attention to the side part - it should not have any ripples.
Continue felting the front detail so that it can be safely unfolded.
Mirror the template and continue laying out the second front detail in the same manner.
Continue rubbing gently then remove the template. Continue felting process until the vest will felt to about half of shrinkage.
Use a tape measure to make sure that vest neckline is equal to hood. Hood neckline must be a little bit longer (2-3cm) - in order to make volumetric hood.
Now, leave the parts to dry.
The next stage is to attach the hood to the vest. Lay the dried parts on the plane, connect them with a blind stitch using gray thread.
Cover the seam with thin wool and fleece strands, making it very inconspicuous.
Moisten and thoroughly rub through the mesh.
Cover the seam with a silk hankies on the wrong side of the garment - as the result, the seam will completely disappear.
Continue felting process until the vest becomes suitable for a first fitting.
Don't fit too much - you need to feel free while wearing it. Use a slightly larger mannequin.
Sew the fasteners - hook and eye tape.
A felted vest is a good addition to a leather jacket:
Another model based on this pattern — a seamless coat with quilted lining:
We wishing you a spring in the heart
Up to new meetings!